Transfer Case

Today's task was to take apart the transfer case and see why the gearbox was stuck in 4WD. As it turns out, it was simpy a long-term lack of lubrication, and so the parts were cleaned and re-lubricated, and then put back together. The box now works as it should, although the rear oil seal will need replacing, and I'll have to order the appropriate bolt for the 4WD selector lever.

Next views are of the case with the cover removed, and the parts cleaned and inspected. 4WD selector shaft has a little rust at the tip, but nothing excessive.

I used the old chassis as a workbench today. The dirt under the locking dog is just a small part of all the dirt removed from the outside of the casing today. Old gasket is an interesting colour....

Looking a little like a small missile, in part due to the 'wings' of the oil thrower half way along, the front output shaft was in good shape. Lighting makes it appear somewhat brown here, but it's not in real life!

Putting it together again for the test (minus the shaft-end dust cover), which was successful. The two bolts on the transfer shaft flange are there for a large wrench to grasp while undoing and redoing the nut.

Just a view of the clutch adjuster, put temporarily back on the bell housing until I get around to setting it correctly. Interesting to note that it appears that the starter motor shaft may have been making contact with the rear of its 'bump' in the housing.

Gearbox and Clutch Withdrawal

Have done the first detailed look at the gearbox and the clutch withdrawal mechanism. The gears worked without problem when the vehicle was purchased, and so they will be left fundamentally undisturbed unless problems crop up later. A close look through the openings revealed no broken or gouged teeth, and there was nothing in the oil when it was drained (except a moth, which must have fallen in as the top inspection panel was missing initially).

The gearbox is stuck in 4WD however, and so the front output shaft assembly will be coming off and apart for close inspection. I'm hoping it's just a lubrication issue or perhaps a broken spring.

The clutch withdrawal mechnism is in good shape, although the "top hat" will need adjusting to its 7/16" (11mm) gap requirement, having been pushed in a little over time.

In this view, top cover of the gearbox off. At right, the dirt let in by the missing inspection panel.

Top cover, looking pristine except, again, for the dirt from the missing cover.

An example of where one of the previous owners has used a screw instead of the required bolt, which is firmly seized. May have to drill it out and re-tap.

Bell housing, with clutch withrawal mechanism removed and a new gasket loosely in place. Bearings, etc., look like new.

Your basic clutch withdrawal mechnism housing, after a bit of a cleanup and inspection.

The interior or the mechnism, not really showing it's age at all.



Putting Some Parts Back On

After months of taking things off and cleaning, repairing, and overhauling, it was nice to put some of those parts back on the engine. Principal motivation, however, was to seal up as many openings to the engine as possible, as a lost of dust is created when grinding and wire-wheeling, not to mention the occasional mouse visit. And also, if a small part gets whisked out of my hands by the wire wheel, I know it won't end up somewhere in the engine. It also lessens the chance of me tripping over the parts in the rather crowded storage area where the finished components go.

Above all, however, it's nice to see the engine looking more like the engine, if you know what I mean.

In this view, the exhaust pipes are just on to test the general fit. In front of the engine, on the frame, is a spacer the previous owner had placed between the cooling fan and its support - which completely put the pulley out of line with the others. It may have been done for some modification to the previously installed hydraulic pump for the plow, and then forgotten. Luckily the old fan belt appears to have been up to the challenge. However, this modification means the bolts holding the fan in place are now too long, so will have to source new ones.

As long as they work properly, it's a nice detail to have been able to keep the original coolant pipe clamps. They are galvanized, and have held up extremely well. One of the broad objectives of this project, of course, is to keep everything as original as humanly possible (within reason).

Just a side view. Most assemblies have cleaned up pretty nicely. WIth the exception of gaskets, coolant by-pass tube and rubber engine mount, everything is 100% original to the vehicle as it was purchased.

A general view, with my pile of manuals visible on the moveable seat. The new Mintex brake shoes have finally been released from a couple of weeks in Canadian Customs, and I hope they'll be here this week so the hubs can be finished off. Then, the wheels will go on.

Next project!

Heart Transplant: Engine Over to New Chassis

This evening accomplished one of the minor milestones of the project, namely getting the engine over to the new chassis. Used two 2000lb-rated straps and the engine hoist, and aside from the challenge of maneuvring the hoist, it went smoothly, helped at the end by my wife. I thought that splitting the engine block from the gearbox/bell housing may have presented some difficulties, but no, it came right off very easily.

A view inside the clutch bell housing. I'm actually surprised at how good it looks, relatively speaking, as it just looked like a muck covered mess when peering through the openings.

 A view of the clutch cover. Doesn't look too bad, either - although it's not possible to see what condition the clutch plate is in at this point.

Just a closer view. I don't think this is 50 years old!

And just a little view of the 2.25 as it tries out its new home. Really must paint that water pump cover!

Wheel Painting; Engine

A view of the wheels, as painting progresses. The paint will need to cure until Monday afternoon before new coats can be put on. The colour is RV White (full name: "Weather Shield" Rust Coat, Alk Rust RV White 340G, Item #1822914), a rust paint from Home Hardware, recommended by Tim in Peterborough, and it does the job nicely. Comparing with areas of pristine original Limestone on the Land Rover, the colour is almost an exact match. To the right are the hubs, waiting to be installed once the Mintex brake shoes arrive and are in place. By then, the wheels should be fully painted and the tires installed - and a rolling chassis will be the result.

Just another view of the engine, with the block painted. Nice to have clean parts to work with. The large cylindrical object sticking out the side, with the wire attached, is the original block heater. The plastic/rubber cap has partially melted over the years, and at present I'm not sure what I'll do with the installation; I'm not even sure it works. It does make a handly removeable plug for the coolant system, however! Shouldn't be too long before the engine can be moved over to the new chassis, and then I'll get to work on the clutch and gearbox.

Painting Engine Block; Oil/ Water Instrument

Have been cleaning and painting the engine block the past few days, plus changing the gaskets, verifying bolt torques, adjusting the tappets and various other things. I was very happy to be able to get a very good paint chip (in fact, several) off the engine block's original pale grey colour, and thanks to the suggestion of Dave at 3 Brothers Classic Rovers, who worked with paints for many years, was able to get an industrial enamel mixed to exactly the correct shade for this engine. Lots more to do!

The paint used is by Devguard, type #4338, a deep base urethane alkyd enamel, and the colour is Mansard Stone. Very nice to work with, and dries without brush strokes.

Apologies for the low lighting, but had shut down for the night when I took the photos. This makes the grey look too light in the first two photos, except in the third photo where it's actually a little dark but closer to what it looks like.

On Monday the oil pressure/water temp gauge will be leaving for Nisonger Instruments for a rebuild. Among other things, the water temperature sender is broken, which is pretty obvious!

Wheels Stripped; Thermostat and Thermostat Switch

Took the morning off and went to Ottawa this morning to fetch the wheels. PrepTech did a really nice job. I didn't think they'd be able to 'retrieve' the stampings on a couple of the more surface-rusted wheels, but they did. Very nice work. It also reveiled that perhaps there was more than one type of wheel supplier in 1960. Four of the wheels have three stampings, namely the "S" in a diamond; the year they were made ("/59"); plus the part number ("231601"). One wheel, however, just has the part number, in a small font.

Looking good!

The stamping fully revealed (only legible on a single wheel previously):

Also tested the thermostat, by immersing it in hot water as per the workshop manual. Nice to see the bellows open at exactly the correct temperature (168 F) and be fully open by the stated temperature (193 F) as well. The other item here (at left) is the thermostat switch for the mixture warning light.

Engine Cleaning

Have begun preparing to remove the engine, by removing the ancillaries such as the dynamo and starter, and beginning to clean the block. A lot of dirt there! Have also begun looking for paint for the engine. Fortunately there are some quite pristine areas underneath the grime, and have been using Photoshop to generate paint colours and then testing them against the existing original paint, so that a paint shop can mix the correct colour. First experiments today with a mix were not sucessful, as the paint did not dry the colour the shop said it would, but thanks to the experts at 3 Brothers Classic Landrovers I have a new (and less expensive) lead to try. Will get to that this weekend, as I would like to get the engine painted and onto the other chassis as soon as possible. Not planning to open the engine up, unless I see leaks or something to warrant it once the engine runs again.

In this view, the cleaning is coming along, but there's a lot to do. Note the duck-egg green paint of the water pump, as opposed to the grey of the rest of the engine. Probably a replacement part from a later model.

On the left, the grime, and on the right, what the block looks like after a lot of scrubbing! Paint is almost like new. Note the numbers - there are a lot of numbers and letters on the engine - I'll note them all down, just out of interest.

Things removed from the engine, plus the steering box and upright supports for the bulkhead and steering box. Starter cover is going to need some tlc....

Have repainted the exhaust manifold a slightly darker shade. Once it's fully cured in 7 days, it'll go through a baking process to harden the paint.