Timing: Problem Fixed

At least, I hope it's fixed. : )

New chain adjustment cylinder installed, as is a new vibration damper and a new timing chain. The old chain appeared in good shape, but while the timing cover is off, it seemed good sense to renew as much as possible.

Below: the refurbished timing mechanism. All will be given a coating of oil before the cover goes back on. Note the large scratch on the chainwheel - from the previously broken parts?

The old vibration damper. A little worn, perhaps? : )

Next step will be to replace the crankshaft oil seal, sand the mating areas of the timing cover, prepare the seals, and then close everything back up.

Timing: Problem Found

Using a 1-3/4" socket, and a piece of wood between a crankshaft web and the engine block, managed to get the starter bolt undone, and after that it wasn't long to get the timing cover off.

 

Below: the cover off, revealing the timing mechanism. Old gaskets were made of cork (as on the sump).

Closer look at the timing chain and related mechanisms. Can you spot the problem?

Here's the problem: the chain adjustment cylinder casting had broken at some point, and the ratchet catch had fallen from there into the sump. The ratchet arm, judging by the wear on the remains of the casting, had been sitting directly on the casting for some time. However, as the casting pieces had broken clean away and left a gap, the ratchet itself appears to have perhaps continued to work, in a way, but now by catching the side of the hole. This is visible in the photo above. The chain does not appear to have made contact with the engine block, judging by the undisturbed dirt and lack of scarring.

The chain damper looks a little beaten up, and so have ordered not just a new cylinder for the adjustment ratchet, but a damper as well.

Water Pump

Today, being a holiday and thus with lots of free time, removed the necessary body panels (including radiator) in order to expose the front of the engine. After that, it was relatively simple to remove the water pump.

Removing the left wing also gives full access to the Kodiak heater, as that will have to come out in order to change the core.

Below: a lot of bolts to undo, but not a difficult job.

The working area, with water pump cover and pump removed. Nice access.

Water pump, looking all-in-all in pretty good shape. It didn't leak before, and the bearing has no play and turns smoothly, and so will be given a good clean and re-installed as is.

The interior face of the pump compartment. Appears to have come through its many years in relatively good condition.

 

The patient. : )

Oil Pump Re-installed

One job done, and now the bigger begins. Will have to remove the radiator and it's panel, the apron, plus the right-side wing, in order to get at the front of the engine. After that, the fan, pulleys, etc., will have to come off, and from there gain access to the timing chain and its mechanisms. The sump will stay off until that's done, just in case any small parts fall from the front of the engine, when open, wherein it would be easy for those parts to enter the sump.

For today, this was enough: the oil pump, looking a little cleaner, re-installed. Note the dipstick, there as well, and the non-authentic-for-the-period front prop shaft.

Oil Pump

As the oil leaks could be the result of a pressurisation of the engine block, perhaps due to a blocked pressure relief valve, blocked filter screen, or just a gummed up pump, Ithought it would be prudent to have a look at the oil pump. Not the easiest task with the engine still in the vehicle and no lift, but actually quite do-able.

With the sump off, the first discovery was a part of the timing chain adjuster lying in the bottom. And so, deciding to check the oil pump turned out to be a good idea, as it revealed a potential problem elsewhere. A check of the timing aparatus is now in order. This will be the task once the oil pump is checked and re-installed.

Below, a view of the sump interior, after a cleanup, still in its factory black paint. I don't know where the two scratches came from, perhaps they're connected with the timing chain adjuster part.

The part found in the sump:

All pump parts present and accounted for, and in good shape, with very little wear apparent. Gears are within tolerances.

Just a view of some of the markings on the pump's lower casting.

A view of the engine interior from the floor of the garage. Mating surfaces where the block meets the sump will need cleaning up.

Check Straps

New check straps for the rear axle arrived, and have been installed. Finally a set that fits. I had ordered two other sets previously, from other suppliers, and both times they were too short. However, these ones were supplied by Paddock's, made by Dunlop, and fit like a dream.

On other subjects, have been chasing down the oil leaks on the rear lower right of the engine block, and it turns out that the bolts in that particular area simply weren't tight enough to hold in 40+ psi of oil pressure.

Did the tiny-est bit of off-roading on Wednesday, just to see what a Land Rover can do. What a pleasure. : )

Short Drive

Went for a short drive at lunch today, just to test things. Engine running well, oil filter cover needed tightening, and in the beginning the clutch pedal briefly made a whirring noise when depressed. I think this is the bearing in need of lubrication, but in any event the noise went away after a short while. Something to pay attention to, however.

Biggest event was the Kodiak core springing a leak as the coolant system pressurised, which made the cabin into a foggy sauna until I turned the unit off. A new core is in order; I'm pretty sure the one in there is the original, and so, as with many of the older parts on this Land Rover, it's not really a surprise.

Beautiful day for a drive: +5 C, in February!!!

Head Gasket Cont'd; Spark Plugs, New Front Right Spring

After having acertained with Steve that the former problem was indeed a pushrod that had come out of its cup during adjustment of the tappet clearances, and that no damage had been done, the new head gasket is in place and the cylinder head re-installed.

Cylinder head being lowered back into place:

Rockers cleaned up (and pushrods carefully checked!):

A new front right spring was installed, from Paddock's, as previously the Land Rover was leaning towards the left-hand side, when using two equal front springs. By using what is normally (on right-hand-drive Land Rovers) a front left-hand spring in this right-hand side, the vehicle now sits perfectly level. Thanks go to Lars for that tip.

After having the cylinder head off three times in the past couple of weeks, everything is now back in place. I ran the engine for 20 minutes, re-torqued the cylinder head bolts (which will be done again after a long drive, when the engine had been at a higher operating temperature), adjusted the carb, and it now appears to be running well.

New non-resitor type spark plugs were installed, NGK B5ES (6410). Incidentally, I'd initially ordered Bosch W8CC plugs from Rovers North, but what arrived were WR8CC+ resistor plugs. A query to RN resulted in them saying that these resistor plugs had superceded the non-resistor, but the website does say W8CC (at time of writing), so if you're looking for non-resistor plugs from RN, call first to see what you'll get.

Just waiting for the hood/bonnet to go back on, and the Land Rover is ready for some more driving.