More Waiting

The Land Rover is presently just waiting for a sump gasket that looks as if it will seal properly. The rest of the engine has been reassembled. The sump is a problem due to the flange not being perfectly flat where it meets the mating surface on the engine block. Due to the way the sump was stamped out, the flange undulates slightly between the bolt holes. A papery-cardboard gasket left enough space between the bolt holes to pass quite a thick feeler gauge through at those points. This would clearly leak. I have a thicker cardboard one, but unless the cardboard is quite compressible, I think there's a high probability that will leak, too.

The original gasket was made of cork, and that would appear to be the correct material to use in this instance. 3 Bros. has asked a gasket maker to come up with some cork examples, and I'm hopeful that with a little luck they will  be available to test some time next week.

Below: Not too clear, but does show the undulating surface. Were later sump flanges flatter?

Heater Core Arrives

Some 4000 km from Vancouver to here, in a very short time! The replacement heater core for the Kodiak arrived today from Falcon Enterprises, and looks good. Of course, haven't put it to the test yet, but it looks in good shape, and must be sealed as there was a slight hiss of a pressure differential when one of the blue tube caps was prised off. The core itself has a sticker attached from Vista-Pro Automotive LLC, and so it's fair to assume the part was made by them.

Did a test fit, and no problem there, unsurprisingly. Now to put the Kodiak back together and re-install the unit.

Below: the new core has the blue tube caps. Very similar overall to the original core.

Waiting

Seems like a long time, when waiting for parts! Just need the new water pump gasket and the new heater core, but they're taking their time. I hope the core will be here this week (presently in Vancouver, according to tracking), and the gaskets could be next week depending on Customs. Starting to get withdrawal symptoms from not driving the Land Rover! : )

Timing: Problem Fixed

At least, I hope it's fixed. : )

New chain adjustment cylinder installed, as is a new vibration damper and a new timing chain. The old chain appeared in good shape, but while the timing cover is off, it seemed good sense to renew as much as possible.

Below: the refurbished timing mechanism. All will be given a coating of oil before the cover goes back on. Note the large scratch on the chainwheel - from the previously broken parts?

The old vibration damper. A little worn, perhaps? : )

Next step will be to replace the crankshaft oil seal, sand the mating areas of the timing cover, prepare the seals, and then close everything back up.

Timing: Problem Found

Using a 1-3/4" socket, and a piece of wood between a crankshaft web and the engine block, managed to get the starter bolt undone, and after that it wasn't long to get the timing cover off.

 

Below: the cover off, revealing the timing mechanism. Old gaskets were made of cork (as on the sump).

Closer look at the timing chain and related mechanisms. Can you spot the problem?

Here's the problem: the chain adjustment cylinder casting had broken at some point, and the ratchet catch had fallen from there into the sump. The ratchet arm, judging by the wear on the remains of the casting, had been sitting directly on the casting for some time. However, as the casting pieces had broken clean away and left a gap, the ratchet itself appears to have perhaps continued to work, in a way, but now by catching the side of the hole. This is visible in the photo above. The chain does not appear to have made contact with the engine block, judging by the undisturbed dirt and lack of scarring.

The chain damper looks a little beaten up, and so have ordered not just a new cylinder for the adjustment ratchet, but a damper as well.

Water Pump

Today, being a holiday and thus with lots of free time, removed the necessary body panels (including radiator) in order to expose the front of the engine. After that, it was relatively simple to remove the water pump.

Removing the left wing also gives full access to the Kodiak heater, as that will have to come out in order to change the core.

Below: a lot of bolts to undo, but not a difficult job.

The working area, with water pump cover and pump removed. Nice access.

Water pump, looking all-in-all in pretty good shape. It didn't leak before, and the bearing has no play and turns smoothly, and so will be given a good clean and re-installed as is.

The interior face of the pump compartment. Appears to have come through its many years in relatively good condition.

 

The patient. : )

Oil Pump Re-installed

One job done, and now the bigger begins. Will have to remove the radiator and it's panel, the apron, plus the right-side wing, in order to get at the front of the engine. After that, the fan, pulleys, etc., will have to come off, and from there gain access to the timing chain and its mechanisms. The sump will stay off until that's done, just in case any small parts fall from the front of the engine, when open, wherein it would be easy for those parts to enter the sump.

For today, this was enough: the oil pump, looking a little cleaner, re-installed. Note the dipstick, there as well, and the non-authentic-for-the-period front prop shaft.