Have just been going over everything to date and trying to finish up the details of things as they are, before any major bodywork pieces go on.
In this view, dynamo and fan belt are now installed, as are the bulkhead supports (from Ashtree). Dynamo needs a new pulley nut, as the original double pulley had to be removed as it was fouling the cooling fan - and the second pulley was acting as the nut.
Battery/air filter tray has also been installed, as has the fuel tank. The fuel line from tank to flex hose has been bent back to what I think must be its original shape and was installed, but has been removed for painting. At far left you can just make out the main instrument cluster. Word from Nisonger this week was that the auxiliary oil/water gauge overhaul should be completed soon.
Prop shafts are being installed, plus various bit of plumbing and wiring that can go on before the bulkhead. Have also started to lay out the brake lines (from Automec via 3 Brothers Classic Rovers).
Once the final prop shaft bolts have arrived and are installed, the clutch slave cylinder unit will also go on. Rear prop shaft is installed and bolts torqued. Also waiting for some new locnuts for the hand brake drum. Arriving soon should be a variety of parts, inlcluding clips for the speedo cable.
This is just a simple pictorial history of my restoration of an original Canadian-import 1960 Land Rover Series 2 88" (or SWB - Short Wheel Base), LHD (Left Hand Drive) which I purchased in August, 2010. Later posts include photos of some of the things I've done with the vehicle since its restoration was essentially completed, although repairs and other maintenance are obviously an ongoing process. Words in orange are links. Click the photos to make them full size. Search using box below.
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Sunday, May 29, 2011
Tuesday, May 24, 2011
Bean Can
Or, as it's otherwise known, the brake and clutch fluid reservoir. Spent a while cleaning it up today, to see if it is worth restoring - and I think it is. Not in perfect shape, but as long as it doesn't leak it should come out ok. Most of the discolouration is just light corrosion and surface rust. The nice thing about using this one is that it's original to the vehicle. Just have to find a way to make sure the bottom exit doesn't leak.
In this view the basic components:
Inside is nice and clean (except some dust from the cleaning!).
In this view the basic components:
Inside is nice and clean (except some dust from the cleaning!).
Sunday, May 22, 2011
Gearbox Installed
Another milestone in the project today, with the installation of the gearbox. I'm glad I bought the splined clutch alignment tool, I'm pretty sure it made the process that much quicker. If I'd had to slowly rotate the primary pinion as well as pushing and trying to get everything aligned by myself, it would have been more difficult and taken a lot longer. As it was, getting everything correctly aligned was a time consuming process, but after an hour or so there came the moment when gearbox and engine suddenly appeared to stop resisting and in went the pinion.
These two views show the gear show the gearbox being lowered into place. Not much clearance on all sides, what with the exhaust pipe in place, it even took turning the 'feet' below the rubber mounts to an angle to get everything in place without scratching something.
Getting the two sections precisely aligned so that the shaft would enter the clutch drive plate was a challenge. In the end, I had a jack under the rear of the engine, a large C-clamp on one side keeping engine and bell housing at a set distance, and a wooden lever on the other side to adjust the distances. Turning the C-clamp handle would close things up a little, then everything else was adjusted to suit. Only when everything was aligned with a pretty good degree of precision did the shaft suddenly enter the clutch plate. Nice not to have to search for spline alignment, thanks to the tool. Once it was in, it was a matter of getting the nuts on just to hold everything together and then tightening them to hold engine and housing tightly together. Tomorrow I will go back and install the nuts correctly with their lock washers and then torque as required.
View below: The moment of success! I even put the hand brake lever mechanism back on, just to get it out of the way. After everything was in place, the engine was turned over a few revolutions using the starter handle to make sure everything was in working order and output shaft flanges turning.
These two views show the gear show the gearbox being lowered into place. Not much clearance on all sides, what with the exhaust pipe in place, it even took turning the 'feet' below the rubber mounts to an angle to get everything in place without scratching something.
Getting the two sections precisely aligned so that the shaft would enter the clutch drive plate was a challenge. In the end, I had a jack under the rear of the engine, a large C-clamp on one side keeping engine and bell housing at a set distance, and a wooden lever on the other side to adjust the distances. Turning the C-clamp handle would close things up a little, then everything else was adjusted to suit. Only when everything was aligned with a pretty good degree of precision did the shaft suddenly enter the clutch plate. Nice not to have to search for spline alignment, thanks to the tool. Once it was in, it was a matter of getting the nuts on just to hold everything together and then tightening them to hold engine and housing tightly together. Tomorrow I will go back and install the nuts correctly with their lock washers and then torque as required.
View below: The moment of success! I even put the hand brake lever mechanism back on, just to get it out of the way. After everything was in place, the engine was turned over a few revolutions using the starter handle to make sure everything was in working order and output shaft flanges turning.
Friday, May 20, 2011
Clutch Installed
This evening the clutch driven plate and cover were attached. The Land Rover came with a 9.5" clutch installed, and so I decided to keep things that way. Installing the new clutch was pretty straight forward, helped by the clutch alignment tool you can see at the bottom of the photo, from Rovers North. I was contemplating making my own from pipe, but as the purpose-built tool has the splines and cost next to nothing, I went with that. Having the splines on the tool also means I can make sure the splines of the driven plate and those of the primary pinion are aligned as much as possible before trying to slide them together, which, I hope, should cut down on the 'jiggling' necessary when installing the gear box.
Sunday, May 15, 2011
Plow, Etc. Gone at Last; Gearbox Prep; More Parts
Today was an exceptional day, in that I was able to meet the three brothers of 3 Brothers Classic Rovers, who had driven here from Cambridge, Ontario to collect the un-needed set of new tires and the snow plow, plus my original bulkhead for refurbishment. A real pleasure to meet the brothers in person. Once the old chassis is gone to its new home in NY and the replacement tub is here, the brothers will be back to drop off the original bulkhead once it's completed, and will take the original tub back with them. Then the garage space will really be freed up. Already, with just with the plow, etc., gone, it feels as if there is much more room to work in.
This afternoon the chassis bracket for the handbrake was installed, and then the gearbox mounting brackets. Also was able to start attaching the hand brake itself. Just need the specialised clevis pin that connects the hand brake rod to the relay and hand brake lever, a new oil seal for the front of the transfer box, and a new clutch adjustment tool to arrive (could have made my own, but want the splines to line up as well), and the gearbox plus clutch will be ready to install. Earlier this week Blanchards in the UK had sent a few harder to find parts for the gearbox, plus the clutch adjuster had been put to the correct distance, and so things really moved along.
As promised, an overall view with the wheels on, now that there is once again a bit more room.
And, as ever, more small parts to clean and restore, these coming for the most part from the original bulkhead.
This afternoon the chassis bracket for the handbrake was installed, and then the gearbox mounting brackets. Also was able to start attaching the hand brake itself. Just need the specialised clevis pin that connects the hand brake rod to the relay and hand brake lever, a new oil seal for the front of the transfer box, and a new clutch adjustment tool to arrive (could have made my own, but want the splines to line up as well), and the gearbox plus clutch will be ready to install. Earlier this week Blanchards in the UK had sent a few harder to find parts for the gearbox, plus the clutch adjuster had been put to the correct distance, and so things really moved along.
As promised, an overall view with the wheels on, now that there is once again a bit more room.
And, as ever, more small parts to clean and restore, these coming for the most part from the original bulkhead.
Monday, May 9, 2011
Wheels on at Last
Today the good folks at the Firestone Tire Centre put the wheels on the rims, and did it with care not to scratch the rims. Now I can use the 'wiggle' method to properly tighten the hub inner nuts, and the chassis will then be ready to roll.
Someone has asked what make the tires are, so I'll add that here now. They are from Universal Vintage Tire (who have excellent service), and are 650-16 Super Traxions. The web page: https://www.universaltire.com/650-16-sta-super-traxion.html
Lined up and with the rims looking much whiter than they are in real life: the five wheels.
With the colours more as they are, here's the forward right, installed. It would be nice to have an overall shot of the chassis with the wheels on, but presently the garage is almost too crowded to move. Next weekend I believe someone is coming to take the old chassis off to its new home and new life (and leave an undented tub in exchange!), which will make more room, and the following weekend the brothers from the truly excellent 3 Brothers Land Rovers should be here to take the snow plow, old tub and various other things, which will free up even more room. Then I can take an overall photo!
Someone has asked what make the tires are, so I'll add that here now. They are from Universal Vintage Tire (who have excellent service), and are 650-16 Super Traxions. The web page: https://www.universaltire.com/650-16-sta-super-traxion.html
Lined up and with the rims looking much whiter than they are in real life: the five wheels.
With the colours more as they are, here's the forward right, installed. It would be nice to have an overall shot of the chassis with the wheels on, but presently the garage is almost too crowded to move. Next weekend I believe someone is coming to take the old chassis off to its new home and new life (and leave an undented tub in exchange!), which will make more room, and the following weekend the brothers from the truly excellent 3 Brothers Land Rovers should be here to take the snow plow, old tub and various other things, which will free up even more room. Then I can take an overall photo!
Sunday, May 8, 2011
Unusual Fuel Tank?
The old fuel tank was sufficiently corroded that I purchased a new one, but when taking the old one out it was interesting to see that it was a two-part unit. I haven't found this in the manuals. The old fuel tank was a replacement from "Mr Fuel Tank" in Toronto as some point. The tray on which the tank itself is very nicely made, and so looks as if it may be a Land Rover part, but I can't be sure.
The old tank would have been held in place by the filler and vent lines alone, which somehow doesn't seem safe. The new tank is the more usual one-piece bolt in unit.
(Edit: those that know indicate this is most likely an error, as the two should indeed be attached.)
Here's both parts:
The underside of the tank:
The underside of the supporting tray:
The old tank would have been held in place by the filler and vent lines alone, which somehow doesn't seem safe. The new tank is the more usual one-piece bolt in unit.
(Edit: those that know indicate this is most likely an error, as the two should indeed be attached.)
Here's both parts:
The underside of the tank:
The underside of the supporting tray:
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