Workhorses

When walking back to the Land Rover today, I noticed this tableau. Probably 50 years here between the two trucks. I wonder if either of these has a chance of still being around in another 50 years?

Fall Colours

When for a drive at lunch today. Fall colours just coming in, and will only last a week or two at best. Always a nice time of year.

(click on the picture for full-size view)

Thermostat and Housing

The Land Rover had been running too hot ever since it went back on the road after the restoration. Everything tested ok, the coolant sytem had been flushed, thermostat worked, radiator worked, brakes weren't dragging, timing was good, etc., but temps were consistently about 20C too hot. Nothing drastic, but not normal, and something I wanted to correct.

Further testing of the old thermostat showed that it could stick shut from time to time. A look at the coolant system design also appeared to show that the large Kodiak heater hoses were likely bringing  a lot of coolant directly back into the engine, coolant which doesn't pass through the radiator.

At first I tried to find a new thermostat, to see if that would cure the problem, and while I eventually found one, they are obviously very hard to come by and subsequently quite expensive. This rarity might pose problems in the future. That, and the Kodiak hose question, made me look at the later thermostats used on Series 2a and Series 3 vehicles.

Those designs (there are two types) looked as if they might have some design advantages over the original, and after some more research, the late 2a/3 type looked best. It's thermostat has a 'skirt' that blocks a large part of the flow back into the engine, the rest then going through the radiator. It also has a 'cap' that, when the engine is cold, appears to stop flow to the radiator more thoroughly and direct more coolant directly back into the engine until the engine has warmed up.

The earlier thermostat, which didn't seem as effective, is a 'waxstat', with the same permanently open hole at the top as with the bellows type, which means more coolant going immediately back into the engine without passing through the radiator. The open thermostat doesn't do that much to divert flow to the radiator except lack of resistance down the radiator channel, which is offset from the main channel.

The newer housing installs without a problem onto the older type cylinder head. I installed an 82C thermostat (the other option is 74C), went for a long drive, and the engine, once at full operating temp, stayed at 82C. Right on the money. It would seem the problem is solved.

Below, the original 1960 housing. Note how the radiator return-hose empties directly back into the engine. It still does with the new housing, but the thermostat and housing design directs far more coolant to the radiator, and appears much better able to cope.

On the left, the original housing and (rare) bellows-type thermostat. On the right, the new housing with skirted thermostat and gasket in place. (Parts are sitting on spray can lids, in case you're wondering.)

On the left, the skirted thermostat and outlet housing. On the right, an earlier waxstat outlet. Note the differences in the openings. The inset image is just there to show the waxstat shape, as I don't have one here.

New housing and thermostat in place. It would seem much simpler to change thermostats with this design, too.

Have re-routed the heater return-hose to the side of the engine away from the exhaust manifold, too, in case that helps cooling by keeping the hose away from a hotter part of the engine.

Just needing the fan shroud to go back on, once another test drive confirms there are no leaks.

Finally, after a long test drive, fan shroud re-installed, and heater hose attached to center bolt of the valve cover with an aviaton hose clamp, to stop the hose touching the ignition wire or valve cover.

'Eyebrow' Headliners

Finally got around to doing the 'eyebrow' headliners. These are steel stamped plates covered with glued-on fabric-backed vinyl. The steel had become heavily surface-rusted and this had pushed off and to some degree distorted the vinyl surface. The glue itself hadn't survived particularly well, either. The vinyl came off just by pulling up the fold-over sections. The vinyl itself had survived pretty well for it's age, however, although the small bumps from the rust, and other distortions formed around screw holes and places where the headliner touched the body, were impossible to get rid of. The fold-around edge locations were definitely there to stay, but this helped to put the vinyl back on exactly as it was originally.

 Below, the basic steel forms, de-rusted and painted with a rust-paint.

 

 

The vinyl glued back on, using 3M's High-Tack Spray Adhesive. The vinyl insisted on keeping most of it's original shape, and to counter this the internal edges were taped down after painting to prevent slow curling and hopefully eliminate future delamination. The cut of the vinyl is factory original; that's how it looked originally. Not pretty, but it did the job.

 

Test fit of both headliner halves. That is not their original colour - they were white, as was clearly shown by the areas that had remained hidden. That's just 50 years of dirt, possibly combined with cigarette smoke, who knows.



Finally painted the halves with the excellent paint for vinyl used for the roof headliner.

Just an after and before view. Note how screw holes and top edges do not lign up. Welcome to quality control, 1960-style.

All three original headliners, roof and eyebrow, installed with their original vinyl. Very happy to have been able to keep them.

Door Seal Rivets

The by-the-foot rubber door seals that were installed have been peeling off, in spite of using very good quality 3M glue. I spoke to Peter Baker at 3 Bros.and he kindly sent over a complete kit of new door seals for the Land Rover, the purpose-made ones with metal strip inserts, the kit including the correct tubular rivets and the loan of a top-of-the-line river squeezer. A really nice quality kit. Unfortunately the peculiarities of this vehicle (factory body assembly left a lot to be desired, but was kept as it's authentic to this vehicle) meant that these new seals can't really be used, as the doors will not close. Instead, after some experimentation and testing, there appears to be a way to use the tubular rivets on the by-the-foot rubber door seals. This method works well, and keeps the authentic look inside the cab.

Below: finished results, from inside the cab, at rear of door. No more holes, just nice new aluminum rivet heads.

In the plastic bag, the rivets as supplied by 3 Brothers Classic Rovers. A box of 3/16" aluminum backing plates were purchased elsewhere, to serve as the metal support plates inside the rubber door seal.

First step, drill a 3/16" hole into the rubber seal from the inside surface, going only through the first two layers (out of three). Don't drill through the outer curved part. Keep the drill turning quickly so that the rubber doesn't bind to the bit.

Secondly, use a pair of needle-nose pliars to slide a backing plate into the hole. The rubber is quite stretchy, and will allow the backing plate in and then essentially close up afterwards.

Third step, center the backing plate within the seal using an awl or whatever serves the purpose. The rubber will keep the backing plate in position once it's where it needs to be.



The next step is done on the Land Rover - just doing it here for illustration. Push the rivet through the hole in the door seal flange on the Land Rover, then through the seal and backing plate. Then the tubular rivet can be squeezed very easily. The rivet squeezer means the pressure on the river can be modulated to be just tight enough to hold the seal, without flattening the inner surface of the seal too much and thus distorting the  seal, as usually happens with pop rivets. 

That's all! : )





Long Short Drive.

On a nice day between two rainy ones, took the dog for a short drive after work. If you've twelve minutes to spare, or want to see what it's like driving a Land Rover, or are just having trouble falling asleep, come along for the drive. : )

Self Cancelling Vacuum Indicator Switch

Installed the new indicator switch today. The original still worked, but the vacuum element was broken, and so had to be turned off manually. This meant that, often enough, I'd forget to turn it off as the switch is not readily in view. The new switch was ordererd from Holden UK, here, and arrived quickly and was well packed. Quite a pricey unit, but as they are difficult to find and a working switch was needed, so be it.

I thought it would be just a matter of a few minutes to install, but the old Land Rover motto (at least for me) "what you think will be easy will in fact be difficult, and vice versa" came into play.

First, though, the new part is almost identical in appearance to the original. The original has the name Lucas on the back, the new simply has the made in UK info, but the body is the same bakelite-type material. The differences:

- The original had a galvanized large lock washer, the new appears to be simply plated.
- The screw-on ring of the new is not of the same quality as the original, but the original can be used on the new switch (as with the original lock washer).
- The openings on the lock-screws on the rear face inwards, whereas on the original they face outwards.

The problem area: the new unit didn't fit through the original hole in the auxiliary panel. And so the wires had to be undone again, and a file used to take off the required amount (approx 1mm from each 'flat' side of the threaded mount) from the switch body. The bakelite is somewhat fragile, and the filing caused some chipping, but only a very small amount. The filing also curled material into the threads, and so they had to be cleaned afterwards. Not a big problem overall, but still unexpected.

The new unit works perfectly, and it's nice to see the turn signals go off automatically. The only other area of potential concern is that it now takes a lot more effort to turn the signal switch lever itself, and I'm a bit worried the old plastic lever will not take the strain for too long. However, that remains to be seen, and new switch levers are available - but not in the original white, unfortunately.

Below, the original on the left, the new on the right.